UIAGM / IFMGA Internationally Certified Mountain Guides
AMGA Certified Alpine Guide, Rock Guide & Ski Mountaineering Guides
|
|
Aconcagua History
Cerro Aconcagua, 22,834' (6,959 meters) has the distinction of being the highest mountain in both the Western and Southern Hemispheres, making it also the highest mountain in the world outside of Asia. Its name is native in origin and may come from the Inca word "Ackon Cahuak" which means "Stone Sentinel." This spectacular mountain is located in the heart of the Chilean-Argentine Central Andes, at a latitude of 32 degrees 40 minutes South.
Aconcagua was first climbed in 1897, up the Northwest side of the mountain by Swiss mountain guide Matthias Zurbriggen. This route has become the most popular way to climb the mountain, and is known as the "Ruta Normal" or Normal Route. The extreme altitude, severe winds, and cold temperatures make an ascent by this, or any other route on this mountain, very challenging. In 1934, a second route was pioneered up the east side of the mountain, by a Polish team. The Polish approached the mountain up the Vacas and Relinchos Valleys to Plaza Argentina, and summited via what is, known today as the Polish Glacier.
GUANACOS VALLEY & TRAVERSE ACONCAGUA EXPEDITION
This route is a newly discovered, non-technical route, which Aventuras Patagonicas explored in February ‘97. This is a much less traveled side of Aconcagua with a gradual elevation gain between camps, allowing for easier acclimatization than other routes. Acclimatization is the key element to summiting the highest peak in the Western hemisphere. Their excellent success rate has been improved by climbing Aconcagua via the Guanacos Valley. We named this route the "Guanacos Route" because, during the exploration of the Valley, we encountered large herds of wild Guanaco, a rare sight in the Aconcagua region. This route offers very few trails, few people, and a true sense of adventure. It is the last untouched route on Aconcagua and we would be proud to share this route with you! This season we are traversing the mountain as well!
TRAVERSE
Our Traverse has been popular among our clients in the last few years. Climbing Aconcagua via a non-technical route and descending the shorter Normal Route you get the whole spectrum of the mountain traveling through three different valleys, the Vacas,Guanacos and Horcones, and passing four different faces of this tremendous peak. On all of these expeditions mules take our gear to Base Camp (Plaza Guanacos) on the East side of the mountain. After the Summit, we descend the north side to Plaza de Mulas Base Camp. At Plaza de Mulas Base Camp, on the Normal Route, we stay at a mountain lodge, a reward to look forward to after climbing the mountain. Mules then carry our gear from Plaza de Mulas back to Penitentes while we hike out to civilization with a light pack. This season, we have decided to do all our routes via the pristine Guanacos Valley, adding our long time favorite Summit Climb and Traverse to this route for the descent.
The Guanacos Valley Route and the Traverse and the Normal Route are not technically difficult, although high altitude, cold temperatures and strong winds can make these climbs very challenging. Participants must be in very good physical condition, able to carry a heavy pack, and have basic mountaineering skills. People signing up for the Polish Glacier Route should have previous high altitude experience, and be very familiar with the use of ice ax, crampons, and belaying techniques. Many expeditions attempt the Polish Glacier Route, though it is rarely successfully climbed. The climb is non-technical to the base of the Polish Glacier, at 19,200', but from 19,200' on, the climbing changes dramatically. Due to steep snow and ice climbing at high altitude, and a very long day, we only consider taking our stronger climbers who are properly acclimatized for this technical route to the summit. We have specialized in the Polish Glacier Route, having successfully guided it many times. Our key for success has been honesty on the difficulty of the climb. The route has been getting harder every year. We have noticed changes over the past 10 years which may be attributed to global warming. We have found more bare ice on the glacier making it more technical than in the past. This last season we encountered penitentes at the base of the glacier which have created an obstacle making the first few hours of climbing much harder and more laborious. We have recently been guiding only the steeper Polish Glacier Direct Route, versus the regular Polish Glacier route, thus avoiding several traverses on icy slopes. Our description of this fine and spectacular route is not intended to intimidate, but to be realistic. If you sign up for the Polish Glacier Route, we make the final decision at 19,200' whether you are acclimatized and strong enough for the attempt. Traversing to the North side and tackling the Summit via the Normal Route, as we have done in the past, is always a great option.
|
|
2005 was our most successful season ever on Aconcagua...
|
|
 |
WATCH DVD TRAILER
|
|
 |
ACONCAGUA INFO
|
|
 |
Topographic map of Cerro Aconcagua
|
|
 |
|
